HUMANURE COMPOST

From: Hare Krsna dasi (Brunswick, Maine - USA) Hare.Krsna.dasi@bbt.se 
Sent: 21 July 1999 17:21
Subject: Humanure Handbook -- sawdust toilets

[Text 2494651 from COM]

Are there simple plans for sawdust toilets, that can be got? I am talking low tech, inexpensive, that can be made with local materials. I have been trying to get hold of one of Radha Krsna Prabhus 'sattvik' toilets, but he seems to be pretty busy.
 
I want something that is designed to be cleared out regularly for composting.
 
YS Samba das

Depending on where you live and what resources you have on hand, a sanitary, odor free sawdust toilet could be set up with no investment at all -- if you were educated on the principles involved.

The best book on this subject is *The Humanure Handbook* by J.C. Jenkins. The subtitle of the book is "A Guide to Composting Human Manure (Emphasizing Minimum Technology and Maximum Hygienic Safety). The ISBN is 0-9644258-4-x. The price is $19.00.

Basically, all you need are two plastic buckets -- one empty and one full of sawdust (or similar plant-based material). Put a toilet seat with a lid on one of the buckets. That's your sawdust toilet. Everytime you use the toilet *cover the excrement completely with sawdust.*

When the toilet is full, empty it onto a compost pile. Add extra plant matter, such as weeds from your garden, vegetable scraps (no butter or other fats), leaves, hay, etc.

After one year, start a new compost pile.

After the second year, you can now use the first pile, and replace that pile with a new one.

***************

That's basically all there is to it. The fine points are that it is crucial that the compost pile reach a high enough heat at some point during the year to kill all the pathogens. This is almost automatic, if you build your pile properly (and don't use pressure treated wood to frame it -- as the arsenic with kill the thermophyllic bacteria whose job it is to destroy all the various pathogens).

Some devotees think that it presents a problem that we wash with water after passing stool and urine. I really don't see how this is a problem. Just use a squirt bottle so that you use less water more efficiently. You'll need to use little bit more sawdust to absorb the extra moisture. Beyond that, there should be no problem.

*********

The basic principle here, that our kids should be learning in their sciences classes is that the physical difference between plant and animal life is that plant life is basically carbon-based (especially dead plants are mostly carbon), and that animal life is a significant source of nitrogen -- nitrogen is a key element in the protein that makes up muscle cells.

Therefore, animals and humans need to consume plants that have high nitrogen content in them, in order to create muscle cells.

What a sawdust toilet is, is a means to recycle the nitrogen from our muscle cells so it can be used by the plants again and consumed again. But the key point is properly composting it so that all the dangerous germs and pathogens are destroyed before putting it on plants.

A sawdust toilet is basically a nitrogen recycling receptacle.

your servant,

Hare Krsna dasi


P.S. For Y2K, I recommend that temples stash their bags of fall leaves for possible use in sawdust toilets in case sewage systems fail in January.

From: Hare Krsna dasi (Brunswick, Maine - USA) Hare.Krsna.dasi@bbt.se 
Sent: 18 October 1999 21:58
Subject: Thermophylic composting of humanure - 2

[Text 2710131 from COM]

"Noma T. Petroff" wrote:

From: Hare Krsna dasi
Subject: Time won't kill roundworms
*************************************

Earlier, there were several posts which may have led devotees to believe that all pathogens in manure can be destroyed if you simply let it sit long enough. I heard that a government extension agent gave similar information to a devotee in North Carolina. According to more authoritative sources, roundworm eggs and salmonella can survive for a long period of time if they are not heated up.

Here are statistics from *The Humanure Handbook* by J.C. Jenkins [page. 127]

{Jenkins cites as his source: Feachem, et al. (1980) *Appropriate Technology for Water Supply and Sanitation*, The World Bank, Director of Information and Public Affairs, 1818 H St., Washington D.C. 20433. His chapter "Worms and Disease" also cites a number of other recent scientific studies on pathogen survival listing other bacteria, etc.}

The point here is that time, alone, is not sufficient to render humanure safe for the vegetable garden. A composting process with adequate vegetable matter to insure the proper carbon/nitrogen ratio for thermophilic bacteria to heat up and act to kill the pathogens is required.

your servant,

Hare Krsna dasi

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@bbt.se 
Sent: 20 October 1999 21:25
Subject: Thermophylic composting of humanure - 2

[Text 2715473 from COM]

The point here is that time, alone, is not sufficient to render humanure safe for the vegetable garden. A composting process with adequate vegetable matter to insure the proper carbon/nitrogen ratio for Thermophylic bacteria to heat up and act to kill the pathogens is required.

I would disagree.

Howard's findings in all over India were that around every village there was a fertile belt where the grain or other crops grew much more intensely and profusely than closer in. This he discovered was due to the places where the villagers had been going out to pass effluent. (from the 'Remaking of Village India', circa 1926. Oxford University press) But as you say for a vegetable garden's immediate use - high temperatures are necessary - therefore he developed in Indore Composting method based on the ancient practices of the Chinese, Koreans and Japanese and the dates of research go back as far as 4,700 years in Farmers of Forty Centuries (Dr. F.H. King) Remember these peoples were feeding the highest densities of population on the planet....' In the Shantung Province, a farmer with a family of twelve kept one donkey, one cow and two pigs on 2.5 acres of cultivated land a density of population at the rate of 3,072 people, 256 donkeys, 256 cattle and 512 pigs per square mile. The average of seven Chinese holdings visited (by Dr. F.H. King) gave a maintenance capacity of 1,783 people, 212 cattle or donkeys and 399 pigs - nearly 2,000 consumers and 400 rough food transformers per square mile of farmland. In comparison with these figures, the corresponding statistics for 1900 in the case of the United States per square mile were: population 61, horses and mules 30.'

(from the 'Lost Science of Organic Cultivation' Brahma Publications)

From: Hare Krsna dasi (Brunswick, Maine - USA) Hare.Krsna.dasi@bbt.se 
Sent: 20 October 1999 22:44
Subject: Re: Thermophylic composting of humanure - 2

[Text 2715622 from COM]

I would disagree.

Howard's findings in all over India were that around every village there was a fertile belt where the grain or other crops grew much more intensely and profusely than closer in. This he discovered was due to the places where the villagers had been going out to pass effluent. (from the 'Remaking of Village India', circa 1926. Oxford University press) But as you say for a vegetable garden's immediate use - high temperatures are necessary - therefore he developed in Indore Composting method based on the ancient practices of the Chinese, Koreans and Japanese and the dates of research go back as far as 4,700 years in Farmers of Forty Centuries (Dr. F.H. King) Remember these peoples were feeding the highest densities of population on the planet....' In the Shantung Province, a farmer with a family of twelve kept one donkey, one cow and two pigs on 2.5 acres of cultivated land a density of population at the rate of 3,072 people, 256 donkeys, 256 cattle and 512 pigs per square mile. The average of seven Chinese holdings visited (by Dr. F.H. King) gave a maintenance capacity of 1,783 people, 212 cattle or donkeys and 399 pigs - nearly 2,000 consumers and 400 rough food transformers per square mile of farmland. In comparison with these figures, the corresponding statistics for 1900 in the case of the United States per square mile were: population 61, horses and mules 30.'

(from the 'Lost Science of Organic Cultivation' Brahma Publications)

The example offered here is China -- but I don't find any mention that these people were free from parasites. Therefore, I don't find any proof that their method of recycling humanure actually did destroy all the pathogens.

Rather, even as recently as 1960, pathogens from humanure were an extremely important health problem in China:

Consider economist E.L. Jones's description of China, for example (*The European Miracle: Environments, Economies, and Geopolitics in the History of Europe and Asia,* 2nd ed.. p. 6):

*************************************

During the Southern Sung period, when agriculture and settlement were shifting south, schistosomiasis and other worm infestations were first described, in a text of 1264 for example (Elvin:186). Faeces discharged into water made China the world reservoir of lung, liver and intestinal flukes and the Oriental schistosome, all serious causes of chronic illness (Polunin 1976:127).

...Human excreta were used as a fertiliser, and soil- transmitted helminth infestation was an occupational hazard for the farmer. According to Han Suyin (1965:390) there was ninety percent worm infestation among children in Peking in the early twentieth century and worms were visible everywhere on paths and alongside buildings. A 1948 source ascribed twenty- five per cent of deaths to faecal-borne infections.

...The aggregate weight of liver parasites in Chinese bodies is estimated as equivalent to the combined weight of two million human beings; in 1960 ninety per cent of the rural population (i.e. eighty percent of the total) were said to be infected with tapeworms; and one-third of all deaths were reported to be caused by this helminthian worm infestation (Borgstrom 1972a:108)...Combined ill-health, heat and malnutrition in the tropics have been show to cut labour productivity per man by up to eighty-seven per cent, besides raising absentee rates (Harrison 1979:604).

***************************

Excellent composting requires sufficient carbon to be mixed with the nitrogen-rich human (and animal, if desired) excrement so that the compost reaches a high enough temperature to kill the pathogens. Also, Jenkins method requires that the compost be aged at least one year. Therefore, there is a combination of high heat (which he measures with thermometers) and time to kill the pathogens.

Carbon does not have to come from sawdust. It can come from other plant sources, such as dried leaves, hay, etc. Many municipalities maintain some kind of mulching facilities to dispose of ground up tree limbs and shrubbery. In the town where I live, this bark mulch is free. You just go to the bark mulch dump and get as much as you like.

On the other hand, if one lives in a location where plenty of water is available, but very little bark, sawdust, dried leaves, hay, etc is available, it seems like a satvik toilet would be preferable to Jenkin's method (which, although it is called "sawdust" toilet does not necessarily use sawdust).

your servant,

Hare Krsna dasi

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@bbt.se 
Sent: 27 October 1999 22:10
Subject: Re: Thermophylic composting of humanure - 2

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On the other hand, if one lives in a location where plenty of water is available, but very little bark, sawdust, dried leaves, hay, etc is available, it seems like a satvik toilet would be preferable to Jenkin's method (which, although it is called "sawdust" toilet does not necessarily use sawdust).

your servant,

Hare Krsna dasi

Yes, China as Howard describes is full of examples of the best and the worst as I have already quoted previously.

In the case of toilets, as you mention, you have certainly found the worst.

However, longer ago than the time you quote in certain places proper compost was made. Howard developed the Indore system from thirty years research and he came up with a system that kills pathogens etc in a much shorter time than one year.

We have been growing food (with no ill effects) on this material after 90 days and 60 days in India. So yes you don't have to have such undesirable material hanging around for a year or so as in the Jenkins system.

We will be investing in 3 foot thermometers for university trials in the near future to prove the system to the sceptics and the rest of the scientific world.

From: Madhava Gosh (das) ACBSP (New Vrindavan - USA) Madhava.Gosh.ACBSP@bbt.se 
Sent: 28 October 1999 18:33
Subject: Re: Thermophylic composting of humanure - 2

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We have been growing food (with no ill effects) on this material after 90 days and 60 days in India. So yes you don't have to have such undesirable material hanging around for a year or so as in the Jenkins system.

I wonder if it would be as safe if the people's stool was from meat eaters?

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@bbt.se 
Sent: 10 November 1999 19:56
Subject: Re: Thermophylic composting of humanure - 2

[Text 2769338 from COM]

I wonder if it would be as safe if the people's stool was from meateaters?

This is a common question and a very good one

The answer is yes it would be safe. I have consulted the company who I work in conjunction with - Ecological Sciences UK, as a colleague I am visiting this week in Germany has asked are the anti-biotics destroyed that may come through in the dung of karmi fed cows? Are they taken out of the food chain? The answer is yes they are all destroyed.

Even heavy metals that may appear in commercial sewage sources have their uptake reduced into plants by the thermophylic composting process. Vermiculture actually reduces the heavy metals to acceptable levels by European standards. This naturally remains as 'inorganic fertiliser' but our goal is to convert sewage from 'uncontaminated sources' into 'organic fertiliser' Our effort is with others to change the current legislation at EEC level to this effect. The missing link in the chain has been missing long enough. And we believe it is a Vedic practice to reconstitute it to the land.

From: Krsnendu (das) BCS (New Varsana - NZ) Krsnendu.BCS@pamho.net 
Sent: 28 February 2000 09:02
Subject: Re: Thermophylic composting of humanure

Most books I have seen recommend not using humanure on "edible root or leaf crops" (The toilet papers.) Is humanure compost made with the Indore method safe to use?

Do you know anything about the Berkely Method? From what I have read it is the fastest method of composting.

From: Carol DGilsen@aol.com 
Sent: 28 February 2000 17:49
Subject: Re: Thermophylic composting of humanure

In a message dated 2/28/00 2:08:21 AM US Mountain Standard Time, Krsnendu.BCS@pamho.net writes:

Most books I have seen recommend not using humanure on "edible root or leaf crops" (The toilet papers.) Is humanure compost made with the Indore method safe to use?
 
Do you know anything about the Berkely Method? From what I have read it is the fastest method of composting.

No I have not heard about the Berkley method. What is done and how to speed up the composting process?????? Inquiring minds want to know? It is my understanding that any method of composting that gets hot enough to kill all the fungi, worms, and bacteria I think 132oF for three days is safe to place in your gardens and the resulting produce is safe and nourishing to eat. Raw sewage placed on crops (Human stool et) is defiantly not safe! It still has all the bacteria and worms and STUFF you never want to catch. Properly composted waste is clean more or less odorless and is excellent for food crops. It is safe, and less we get the various compost gurus squabbling like children in a nursery school. The purpose of composting human stool is (1) to produce good safe compost (2) to not waist a valuable resources (3) to prevent the waste of excess water and to reduce to pollution of our streams, waterways and aquifers. The secret of safe compost is producing a high temperature and maintaining it for long enough to kill any dangerous organisms. AIDS for instance will die outside a host (human) in seconds. Some, poop from strong healthy people has almost no disease pathogens. But it still isn't safe because weaker people may be able to contract illness very easily that wouldn't hurt healthy people. The necessary temp to break down most organic material is between 157oF to 170oF (77oC) So no matter what you are composting if UN sure get one of those big long thermometers and stick it in your compost pile and keep records of the temp. That alone will make the compost safe. Human poop is not a hot manure but it can fairly easily be kept at the correct temp especially if you throw in some kitchen scraps so more air can get in and do its thing. When it has finished "cooking" it is just "Dirt! " compost that can be used on all of your crops with safety. Though there are many different methods the object of these methods is to kill bacteria, fungus and worms and any other nasty that might be lurking in your compost pile. From what I have read almost all do the job with great success. The method and ease of handling the raw product is mostly the issue, and the time it takes. Some processes take two to three years! With many of the processes it is ease and no hassles that the user wants. I personally have used the humanure method to good effect. I am about to try the Satvik potty I will report back when I have a big enough pile to test. But guys remember inspite of all the hype. Temperature is the critical ingredient. That's why I like Biogas. To produce the gas it has to get hot enough to cook the bacteria. That is good enough for me! That way I get away from the thermometer and shoveling from one pile to the other, (great exercise but time consuming) Just add poop water and stir till a creamy texture has occurred. Pop on the lid and in ten days you got gas baby. Gas for the next three months! Then roll the barrel out into the garden and open the top and out goes essentially sterile liquid gold..... well, black stuff. It is more or less odorless smells a little swampy to me. My plants go into hyper drive whenever I pour it on the rows. For those of you interested in Human compost. A study in Sweden on one composting toilet indicates a single person can produce 60 LB (approximately 30 K) of fertilizer per year! Wouldn't you have liked to had the grant to do that study? here:-)

Carol

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@pamho.net 
Sent: 02 March 2000 22:44
Subject: Re: Berkley compost (aerobic)

Compost made of 60-75% dry plant matter 25-40% animal manure-fresh cow or horse manure

This is very similar to Indore compost 70% carbon to 30% dry plant matter with 25% animal or human manure.

I have, however, used as little as one eighth dung in a compost, therefore increasing the potential of your available manure eight times, but this may vary the NPK out put. However the results were first class.

Recepie for 8:1 Indore compost

4" dried weeds and roots
1/2" leaves
2" nettles (or waste Prasad)
1" lawn mowings
4" Veg waste
1/2" leaves
2" soiled animal bedding, mixed evenly
2" nettles again

repeat until four feet high if built within 6 days or 3 feet high over a longer period. If you get loads of white mycellium fungus within the first 10 days of starting the heap the remainder should present no difficulties.

This will give a balanced compost of approx 10:1 carbon to nitrogen, trace element content and if you add wood ashes calcium and potash.

We have, at Bhaktivedanta Manor, been composting very much larger quantities of waste Prasad. It does work but if you are not careful in layering it properly the temperature will not be sufficient and the smell indicator will occur. We have sent samples for NPK values.

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@pamho.net 
Sent: 02 March 2000 22:44
Subject: Re: Thermophylic composting of humanure

I am about to try the Satvik potty I will report back when I have a big enough pile to test.

Any heap that you build for this system I find must be at least four feet square, then it will build up in temperature.

The reason for turning is to ensure all the stuff on the outside gets turned into the inside so cooking is complete, destroying fly larvae etc.

In England leading scientists are determining that it is not advisable to place even animal manure on to crops that may have eadible leaves that may be touched by the manure. There is risk of Ecoli.......... Hence the necessity of thorough composting.

Human effluent correctly placed in an Indore style heap from a Satvik Indore Toilet in it's Biodegradable bag is offenceless in 10 days and is virtually undetectable by the first turn.

If one person produces 30kg in a year then how much work is this to turn such a small amount.

I have been asked to make a 30 minute presentation to the Technical Advisors of 'Water Aid' in June, as they are very interested in a sewage system that is not affected by flood disaster areas.

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@pamho.net 
Sent: 02 March 2000 22:44
Subject: Re: Berkley compost (aerobic)

On the entry 'Berkley Compost' I see there is a conference named Sewage and Water Treatment.

Who is running this conference?

Meanwhile I will try to down load last 10 entries.

From: Gokula das (New Nandagram - AU) Gokula.das@pamho.net 
Sent: 02 March 2000 08:45
Subject: Re: Berkley compost (aerobic)

Do you know anything about the Berkely Method? From what I have read it is the fastest method of composting.

Found it

Compost made of

60-75% dry plant matter
25-40% animal manure-fresh cow or horse manure

Put down a layer of straw and cover with manure then water well. Layer should be about 300mm or 1ft deep. Repeat two more times not forgetting to water each time. The mimimum size is one cubic metre to generate enough heat. Turn every three days.

Your servant, Gokula das.

From: Samba (das) SDG (Mauritius) Samba.SDG@pamho.net 
Sent: 03 March 2000 04:39
Subject: Re: Thermophylic composting of humanure

I have been asked to make a 30 minute presentation to the Technical Advisors of 'Water Aid' in June, as they are very interested in a sewage system that is not affected by flood disaster areas.

Why don't you make a video presentation of your system? I think it would be an excellent marketing tool, and would dispel a lot of doubts, as well as create more favorable interest.

I would certainly purchase one. It should show the composting method, and the toilet itself, etc.

YS Samba das

From: Carol DGilsen@aol.com 
Sent: 03 March 2000 10:47
Subject: Re: Berkley compost (aerobic)

I have heard there is also value in letting the compost mature after the thermophyllic stage is over. Any comments?
 
We have an ashram of 5 big eating brahmacaris and we want to start experimenting with the humanure idea.
 
Should we empty the humanure (and kitchen scraps) into the heap everyday, or keep it until there are enough ingredients for a full size heap and layer it with the other ingredients? In other words do you have to add the humanure at the beginning of a heap, or can you add it while the process is going on?
If storage is required how should that be done? 

Hirable to all Humanure practitioners

When I used the Humanure method I and several friends used a single five gallon bucket ( 20 liters) . The method of use is as follows. Do your thing in the bucket. Cover the deposit with saw dust. I didn't have any saw dust so I ran over a bunch of leaves with weed eater in a large trash can to contain the results. The shredded leaves and grass worked just fine. I kept a paint can full of them next to the potty. Use toilet paper if you normally do. when the bucket gets full take it out and dump on the ground where you plan to have a compost pile. Wash out your bucket over the compost pile. Cover the fresh deposit with leaves straw or sawdust. Then dust the bucket with dried grass or sawdust and take it back to your porta potty area or where ever you do your thing. Kitchen scraps leaf trimmings etc. can also be added. You don't have to turn it. Just cover it to keep it odorless at the end of the year even with five people 'doing their thing" the compost pile will never get more than about four feet tall. At the end of that year. Start a new compost pile next to the first. By the second years end the first pile is cooked and has rich clean smelling essentially sterile compost. Safe for your garden. You do not have to segregate the liquids and solids. We figured that each person was depositing 22 oz per day. I found my old notes on that summer it was pretty funny. The patch I put the compost on seemed to do a little better than the rest of the garden. But in all fairness I probably just spent more time checking out the plants that had the humanure and babied the plants more. Remember ....... It doesn't matter what you are composting. The temperature is the key. Get it hot enough 130oF for three days to kill the bacteria but the temp is usually form 120 to 170o F. Human poop seems to not be as hot so I always added scraps from my garden and kitchen scraps. It worked I have never been a big fan of hard work if avoidable so I prefer to let the Humanure pile "cook " by its self. I did note in my notes that there seemed to be hundreds more of earth worms and their eggs than I have ever seen around a compost pile. I might add that in my day I have seen a compost pile or two. And, I have never seen such a huge collection of earth worms before or after around a compost pile. 

Carol

From: Krsnendu (das) BCS (New Varsana - NZ) Krsnendu.BCS@pamho.net 
Sent: 03 March 2000 08:18
Subject: Re: Berkley compost (aerobic)

I understand from what I have read that the Berkeley Method involves turning the heap more frequently (than Indore), thus keeping the temperature higher and composting faster. (i.e. 2 weeks) This means more work but faster results. I have heard there is also value in letting the compost mature after the thermophyllic stage is over. Any comments?

We have an ashram of 5 big eating brahmacaris and we want to start experimenting with the humanure idea.

Should we empty the humanure (and kitchen scraps) into the heap everyday, or keep it until there are enough ingredients for a full size heap and layer it with the other ingredients? In other words do you have to add the humanure at the beginning of a heap, or can you add it while the process is going on? If storage is required how should that be done? Just covering in earth?

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@pamho.net 
Sent: 08 March 2000 21:11
Subject: Re: Thermophylic composting of humanure

It is nice to know that I can fill a four foot square in a hurry.

For a one woman show it may be difficult, but keep on building up the heap. It should be of so many other ingredients, not necessarily much stool.

Fungus growth will develop in 10 days from when you START building the heap, if the moisture content is correct i.e.. less than 50 per cent before the first turn.

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@pamho.net 
Sent: 08 March 2000 21:11
Subject: Re: Berkley compost (aerobic)

I have heard there is also value in letting the compost mature after the thermophyllic stage is over. Any comments?

We have an ashram of 5 big eating brahmacaris and we want to start experimenting with the humanure idea.

Should we empty the humanure (and kitchen scraps) into the heap everyday, or keep it until there are enough ingredients for a full size heap and layer it with the other ingredients? In other words do you have to add the humanure at the beginning of a heap, or can you add it while the process is going on? If storage is required how should that be done? Just covering in

This subject matter has all been previously discussed on this conference.

According to the Indore system . You will acquire atmospheric nitrogen if the heap is built flat and even up to 90 days (after the second or third turn). After that you will lose it if it is left there. It should be spread on the land thus banking the nitrogen which will be released at next rains. 

ISKCON does not as far as I know use toilet paper ,we use water therefore the Satvik Indore Toilet has been specifically designed. YOU MUST separate the liquid to ensure a fast efficient compost and the correct moisture balance. There are many other advantages.... This system is much cleaner and pleasant to operate. Remember when you have a festival or other event you may get far more liquid or urine than you expect therefore this system allows for all eventualities. And you see and smell nothing. 

Yes you can empty daily kitchen waste and weekly the S.I.T. when the heap is 3-4 feet high simply move along in a row fashion.

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@pamho.net 
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 11:55 PM
Subject: Re: Berkley compost (aerobic)

We always used to put toilet paper in the facilities for Sunday feasts or any other large festivals. The public is not generally expected to follow the standards of brahmacaris living in the temple. Don't other temples do this?

Of coarse you can do this. TOILET PAPER IS BIO-DEGRADABLE. The Satvik system takes it all into account. I'm just trying to show how it works - the best way for all eventualities with guests brahmarcaris etc etc etc. and the best and fastest results are obtained by separating liquids and solids.

From: Radha Krsna (das) ACBSP GB (Great Britain) Radha.Krsna.ACBSP.GB@pamho.net
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2000 12:20 AM
Subject: Re: Berkley compost (aerobic)

Are you selling your sattvick toilet at third world prices for us African Continent types?

Please give us a contact address before you dissapear!

PS. You mentioned about sending money for a video on your product. How much?

Your Servant
Samba das

Please see previous text. I have a patent agent who is also dealing with the international sales of this product under licence. I will ask him to look into possibilities in your area.

Your servant,
Radha Krsna das.